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Attention

IMPORTANT: The content of this page is outdated. If you have checked or updated this page and found the content to be suitable, please remove this notice.

Note : this page is obsolete and maintained here for historical reference only. Information on this page is out-of-date and does not describe current CHDK functionality. See CHDK User Manual for a more current user manual.

Preliminary Scratchpad for creating a comprehensive Firmware Usage page for the AllBest Build.

Below is a copy of the original automatic translation that we have to go on so far. You can use this as topic sections and hints on how to expound on or better translate what we know so far.

Please try to follow some of the section header and formatting conventions as used on the original Firmware Usage page. But I don't think that putting screenshots of the various menus alongside is the best solution this time. If screenshots are included it might be best just to place them above each section. This way any lengthy text won't get squashed into a narrow column (my 2-cents on the issue).

The MoreBest features were merged into AllBest, and if you can not find documentation for a feature you are looking for here, check the MoreBest firmware usage guide.

(The main formatting has been completed. This will alleviate any "editor collisions" if you only select one small portion at a time to edit instead of the full page.)

A CHDK AllBest User Guide in pdf is available HERE.




AllBest's Build


Extra Photo OperationsEdit

In this menu, you can set the parameters for the list of additional photographic operations.


Override shutter speed valueEdit

This section needs revision, but is otherwise mostly done. Specifically, the explanation for Shutter Speed Override variables is not correct for the G7 firmware, and possibly other camera models. (For example: On G7 Firmware, "Value Factor only has two options of 1 and Off" and Override Shutter Speed has what is described below as Value Factor)

'Section needs sample OSD '(on screen display) 'layouts and examples of how to set long shutter speeds of 20, 40, 60+ seconds. Plus OSD  (on screen display) samples of how the settings look, and it appears when enabled, and how to enable Override shutter speeds in simplistic not complicated methods as is currently shown. 

Override Shutter Speed
Choose a new shutter speed which overrides the camera's shutter speed in all modes (auto or manual modes). This selected shutter speed takes priority unless overridden explicitly in scripts by set_tv commands.
The value entered here is dependent on the "Enum Type" selected in the next menu item.
Shutter speed enum type
EV Step -- Shutter speed selection, by 1/3EV steps (the standard shutter selection). Eg: 1/2" (second), 1/1600", etc. Most people will probably choose this familiar 1/3EV step method.
Factor --- Select shutter-speeds by decimal equivalents. (Extremely valuable for analytic and research photography needs.)
Value factor = OFF, 1/100K, 1/10000, 1/1000, 1/100, 1/10, 1, 10, 100
The final shutter speed will be the product of "Value factor" times the "Override shutter speed value".
Example: If you wish to use a shutter speed of 1/50,000th of a second, you select an Override Shutter Speed Value of 2, and a Value Factor of 1/100K. (2/100,000 = 1/50,000)
A full range of shutter speed values are available so that you may use speeds higher than 1/500th second for flash sync (flash sync works at all speeds up to and including 1/64,000th of a second), as well as using your largest apertures up to shutter speeds of 1/10,000th of a second. (Not to mention giving your camera unprecedented flexibility for research and special photography purposes. How many commercially available cameras do you know that can provide a shutter speed of 1/33.3 seconds? (3/100ths) Or 1/175.4 seconds? (57/10,000ths). Or 9.1 seconds? (91/10ths) This method has some exceptional merit.)
Some Common 1/3-stop high-speed shutter values (underline = full-photographic-stops ):


     1/640    =      15.6 * 1/10,000
     1/800    =      12.5 * 1/10,000
   1/1000    =         10 * 1/10,000   (or 1 * 1/1,000)
  1/1,250    =           8 * 1/10,000
  1/1,600    =      6.25 * 1/10,000
  1/2,000    =           5 * 1/10,000
  1/2,500    =           4 * 1/10,000
  1/3,200    =    3.125 * 1/10,000   (or 31.25 * 1/100K)
  1/4,000    =        2.5 * 1/10,000   (or 25 * 1/100K)
  1/5,000    =           2 * 1/10,000   (or 20 * 1/100K)
  1/6,400    =      1.56 * 1/10,000   (or 15.6 * 1/100K)
  1/8,000    =      1.25 * 1/10,000   (or 12.5 * 1/100K)
1/10,000    =           1 * 1/10,000   (or 10 * 1/100K)
1/12,500    =           8 * 1/100K
1/16,000    =      6.25 * 1/100K
1/20,000    =           5 * 1/100K
1/25,000    =           4 * 1/100K
1/32,000    =        3.1 * 1/100K
1/40,000    =        2.5 * 1/100K
1/50,000    =           2 * 1/100K
1/64,000    =      1.56 * 1/100K
1/80,000    =      1.25 * 1/100K
Usage:  Higher-speed flash-sync & large aperture override.
Ultra-high shutter speeds w/ or w/o flash-sync.


Slow shutter speeds of 15 seconds or more are much easier to configure, as they are just multiples of 1 second or 10 second increments. While you may select slow shutter speeds longer than 65 seconds, that value will be beyond all camera model's known capability at this time. If you select a longer shutter speed than 65 seconds the camera will stop at 65 seconds and record your frame. The slowest shutter speed depends on camera model, (and on most cameras is equal to 64 seconds), so the limitation is placed inside the build for your camera model. This way, you can be sure, that you won't set any value higher than this limit. You may be surprised to find out that at ISOs of 80 and 100 that there is no more noise in the properly exposed areas of your images at these extended shutter speeds than when taken in daylight with short shutter speeds. Turning off Noise Reduction (in the RAW menu) will help, and then do your own Dark-Frame Subtraction routine using any available utility. A nice freeware one is the BlackFrame NR from Mediachance.) NOTE: Your Noise Reduction setting in the RAW menu will work perfectly fine with all shutter speeds up to and including 65-second shutter speeds. Also, disabling Noise Reduction in the RAW menu will affect not only RAW images, but also JPG. Keeping in mind that a 65-second exposure will take approx. 130-seconds, 65-seconds for the exposure and another 65-seconds for recording the internal dark-frame.
Since most cameras will most likely never go higher than 1/64,000 of a second shutter speed, these integer selections will be close enough for most practical purposes. If you desire to hit exact 1/3 aperture steps you can always use the High-speed Tv Bracketing mode and set an increment of 1/3rd stops and starting out at a high value as set by this Override Shutter Speed option. Strike-out commment outdated now that there's the new EV Step enum type option. It is also interesting that exact 1/3rd stops never fall precisely on any of these standard 1/3EV values anyway. Take for example your 15-second shutter speed. The real exposure is nearer 16-seconds than 15 seconds, 1/125 is actually 1/128, 1/500 is actually 1/512, etc. The numbers on your camera for shutter-speeds and f/stops, on ALL cameras, are only rounded for convenience since the beginning of photography.
IMPORTANT: It has been found that the maximum ultra-fast shutter-speed is a function of the aperture. At the widest aperture (lowest f/stop number) for your camera, the fastest shutter speed will only be 1/8000 to 1/10,000 second. But you can attain speeds as high as 1/50,000 to 1/64,000 of a second at an f/stop of f/8.0. [This is also the case for the camera without CHDK: a shutter speed of 1/3200 would only be possible at an aperture of f/8.0.]
This makes these high speed uses limited to research situations where high-powered flash is used in-sync with them, as sunlight alone is not bright enough to expose a frame at f/8.0 and a 1/64,000th of a second shutter speed. For further examples on possible uses for such high shutter speeds see the High-Speed Shutter & Flash-Sync Examples page.
Here's a pre-formatted shutter-speed table using a fixed-pitch font, that you can keep on your SD card in your /BOOKS/ sub-folder, just view it with your text-reader in CHDK if you need a reference while out-and-about.
 1/3rd stop shutter-speeds, > = full stops
 # = not easily rounded to whole value,
 use (alternate) setting for accuracy.

    1/640 =     16 * 1/10,000
    1/800 = #   13 * 1/10,000
>  1/1000 =     10 * 1/10,000 ( 1 * 1/1000)
  1/1,250 =      8 * 1/10,000
  1/1,600 =      6 * 1/10,000 (62 * 1/100K)
> 1/2,000 =      5 * 1/10,000
  1/2,500 =      4 * 1/10,000
  1/3,200 =      3 * 1/10,000 (30 * 1/100K)
> 1/4,000 = #  2.5 * 1/10,000 (25 * 1/100K)
  1/5,000 =      2 * 1/10,000 (20 * 1/100K)
  1/6,400 = # 1.56 * 1/10,000 (16 * 1/100K)
> 1/8,000 = # 1.25 * 1/10,000 (12 * 1/100K)
 1/10,000 =      1 * 1/10,000 (10 * 1/100K)
 1/12,500 =      8 * 1/100K ~ Wide Av Limit
>1/16,000 =      6 * 1/100K
 1/20,000 =      5 * 1/100K
 1/25,000 =      4 * 1/100K
>1/32,000 =      3 * 1/100K
 1/40,000 = #  2.5 * 1/100K
 1/50,000 =      2 * 1/100K ~ f/8+ Required
>1/64,000 =   1.56 * 1/100K (1 = top limit)
 1/80,000 =   1.25 * 1/100K (1 = top limit)
Whole integers rounded to nearest value where applicable.
(It is interesting to note that the fractional parts follow the same numeric progression but in reverse as normal 1/3-stop shutter speeds. I.e. 1/125, 1/160, 1/200 going from slower to faster.... and these follow 1.25 * 1/10000, 1.56 (1.60) * 1/10000, 2.00 * 1/10000, going from faster to slower. It wouldn't take long to commit this simple pattern to memory.)

Override aperture valueEdit

This section mostly done, feel free to make it less "wordy" or more accurate and concise if you can.


This option allows custom setting of F/Stop values.
NOTE: Build #100-15 or later. The Aperture Override Value is now shown in the true Av value, rather than a generic EV calculation. The below information is no longer applicable to the new implementation of this feature. (Leaving the below outdated info intact, just in case someone needs it, or for educational purposes. Plus some of the numeric vs. hardware limits is, or might still be, applicable.)


Value = OFF, MIN, or a number that ranges from +1/3 to +5 in 1/3rd stop increments.
You can set any Av value from the lowest possible (MIN), with 1/3 Ev steps up to a maximum shift of 5EV. (The normal range of most Powershot cameras is f/2.x to f/8.0, giving an EV range of +3.) This value is the aperture value added onto the base, or largest aperture that your camera can produce. This method was chosen to ensure compatibility, as available aperture values of different camera models are not all the same. If this option is set the on-screen display (OSD) show this value as "AV:X.XX", (in accordance with the characteristics of the particular camera model). Example: If your camera's largest aperture value is f/2.7 and select an Override Aperture value of +1, you will be requesting that your camera use an actual aperture of f/4.0 (or more accurately in the display as f/3.92). If you select an aperture override of EV+4, then your chosen Av is f/11 (or f/11.11),
An average Av equivalency chart (if your camera's largest Av starts at f/2.7). These are read from the settings for an S3 IS lens:
Av EV   real val. rounded value
  MIN =  f/2.77   (f/2.7)
  1/3 =  f/3.11   (f/3.2)
  2/3 =  f/3.49   (f/3.5)
    1 =  f/3.92   (f/4.0)
1 1/3 =  f/4.40   (f/4.5)
1 2/3 =  f/4.94   (f/5.0)
    2 =  f/5.55   (f/5.6)
2 1/3 =  f/6.23   (f/6.3)
2 2/3 =  f/6.99   (f/7.1)
    3 =  f/7.85   (f/8.0)
3 1/3 =  f/8.81   (f/9.0)
3 2/3 =  f/9.89  (f/10,0)
    4 = f/11.11  (f/11.0)
4 1/3 = f/12.47  (f/12.5)
4 2/3 = f/13.99  (f/14.0)
    5 = f/15.71  (f/16.0)
(If you would like to contribute the Av Override Equivalents for your particular camera model, please do so.)


This Aperture Override will also be applied to any automatic settings chosen in P mode on your camera. You will also find that smaller apertures (higher f/stop numbers) will only be available at the longest focal lengths of your zoom lens.
It is important to note that although your camera may report an f/13 (12.7) or f/15 (14.3) in use, the true aperture will be limited by the mechanical limits of your own camera. So while it may display f/15 being in use (and it reports f/15 in the EXIF Maker Notes), in truth an f/11 may be all that your camera is capable of using.
For futher information on 1/3rd f-stops see this PDF format document: "F-stops and Shutter Speeds in 1/3rd Stop Increments"

Override ISO valueEdit

This functionality needs wider testing. There appear to be inconsistencies in how the ISO Override is behaving on various camera models. Sometimes it acts as expected, sometimes it does not. One possibility is that the ISO override may, at times, be added onto a manually selected ISO value, or the camera's AutoISO value. Until ISO-Override has been debugged, and has some reproducible effects, this functionality should be considered experimental.

ISO Override provides expanded ISO selection by allowing one to set an arbitrary ISO value. What actual limits there are for the usable ISO values in each camera model have not yet been determined. However, a expanded ISO range is often available. Testing appears to indicate that this setting is most successful at reaching lower ISO values. Lower ISO values, at least, are working with A610, A620, and S2 cameras. On A630 and A640 cameras it is possible to set arbitrary ISO values. With other cameras the situation is, thus far, not clear.
Override ISO Value = 0 - ???
Primary coefficient of the desired ISO value.
Value factor = [OFF, 1, 10, 100]
Has the same meaning as above for "Override Shutter Speed Value".
The overall ISO setting is Override ISO Value * Value factor. For example: Override ISO Value = 16 and Value factor = 100 results in 16 * 100, or ISO 1600.
Testing notes on early builds: It appears that the ISO value can be overridden from about ISO 50 or ISO 55 to about ISO 850 (on cameras that have built-in ISO limits of ISO 80 to ISO 800). So there is some leeway to play with. In particular, we are getting a large chunk of lower ISO range that has heretofore been unavailable. If you need slower shutter speeds (e.g. for blurring-water effects) this is a wonderful Low-ISO addition. However, use of this functionality should be considered experimental. At times, there have been "accidental" ISO finds as low as ISO 40 or as high as ISO 1700 [appears to be on cameras with ISO 80 to ISO 800; unknown if the ISO 1700 report was on an ISO 1600 rated camera]. It is still not clear how and when such ISO values can be reproduced using this function. ISO Bracketing is similarly acting odd at times. Still, it's nice to to be able to play with it in its present condition. :) It appears we do not have any testing reports from cameras marketed as being able to go to ISO 1600, or ISO 3200.
    • James W. Manning (binsurf(at)gmail.com) - Through experimentation, I've been able to get the S5 IS to go as low as ISO 12. I know this because when I view the info about the image after taking it, it shows ISO 12 (Seems to be the lowest possible setting). E-mail me for more info if you like. I've also seem high ISOs above 3200. Noisy, but they are available.
      • PhyrePhoX - well, what the camera thinks the iso/what is written in the exif is not neccesarily the setting that was used in the shot. it's a bit like a hot water tap - you can crank it up to the hottest setting, like 60°, but you will only get out 40° because thats whats coming through the pipe. now imagine the exif data being the gauge on the watertap. you can only confirm these extreme iso values by comparison of histogram.
      • Anton Krug (anton.krug(at)gmail.com) - PhyrePhoX has right, mine SX1 IS reports ISO 10 when the overide is set to 1, but the historigram is about 1 stop darker so the real ISO would be around 40 (or perhaps 50)
    • Zwaf - I can confirm that custom ISO works for the PowerShot G9 to as low as ISO 16. The camera even shows its own ISO at 16 when I half press the shutter (the standard icon in the top). Also, when transferred to the computer the EXIF reports it was fired at ISO 16. I have not yet found any difference in quality compared to ISO80 but I'll keep you posted.
      • shappenfit - I can say after testing on a G9 running 9.9-1354, the override has no function other than change the exif setting. when the physical is set to ISO 80, regardless of the override setting it will expose at ISO 80 though it will write the override value (eg ISO 640). When auto function is hard selected on the iso knob, it functions similarly with only changing the exif value, the exposure is set by whatever the canon program decides should be set.

Override subject dist.value"Edit

Custom setting for focus distance (in millimeters). Only works when camera is used in Manual Focusing mode.

"Value factor (mm)
Multiplier for the above values. Has values 1, 10, 100, 1000. All of this is in millimeters. (Translation from AllBest's original info: Call attention to that the facility operates only on the mode of manual focus. There is a view that this way to use manual focus several convenient than through standard slider with incomprehensible behavior Test results show that for small distances (macro range) and perform substantial shifts for at least 1 cm on the average not less than 5 cm, if you wish, you can make more accurate verification)
Value of factor (mm)
Coefficient for the value pointed out above. Have values 1, 10, 100, 1000. All this in the millimeters.

The following section in italics is still the original rough Russian to English translation. This needs to be translated better

The changing of all settings mentioned above will lead to according changes of the information displayed on the LCD. In case of shutter speed - LCD shows user set value before focusing, and then (after focusing) it will be recalculated from corresponding property case.
Just an observation... If continually recalculate this value during the shooting, you can see that, for example, Tv = 1/13, which is displayed by original firmware, not always equal to calculated value (not always has the same corresponding property value). It can vary a little bit.
Be noticed that a camera does not recalculate exposition, if user overrides these parameters trough CHDK. In the same time, the "Overexposure value" (from misc values) can be used for exposure corrections manually. But! This value does not take into account flash light value. There is a future plan to take flash into account during calculation of "Overexposure value".


Allbest Build #100-11 (or later) Shortcut Addition:

When you have selected an SD Override in the menus, you may now use a "shortcut" method of selecting the focus distance required without having to go back into the CHDK Menus.
1. Make sure you have turned on SD Override with any settings.
2. Exit <ALT> Menus to normal camera operation.
3. Put your camera in Manual Focus (MF) Mode.
4. Now if you enter <ALT> mode (using your <ALT> toggle button) you may:
5. Use left or right navigation buttons to change unit increments: 1's, 10's, 100's, 1000's, (mm, cm, dm, m.)
6. Use your zoom switch to increase/decrease SD Override in chosen units.
7. Exit <ALT> mode to use new SD Override value.
This new changing of SD Override on-the-fly works in real-time. Meaning as you change the Subject Distance value it will update the lens focusing mechanism just as if you were using your camera's manual focusing controls. Interestingly, at wide-angle you can enter or make use of Super-Macro Mode focusing distances, without having to engage the special Super-Macro Mode feature on your camera.

Extra Photo Operations > Bracketing in Continuous ModeEdit

This section mostly done, feel free to make it less "wordy" or more accurate and concise if you can.


Set a bracketing mode which works in continuous and high-speed continuous shooting mode. These features may be set in advance but will have no effect until either the camera is put into continuous mode and the shutter button is held depressed or the camera is set to the continuous selftimer.
Usage Tip: If you wish to fire off individual frames and still have bracketing for each one, after the first shot lightly let-up on the shutter button to a half-press position. The next full-press will give you another bracketed shot. This process may be repeated for as many bracketing steps as you need. Giving you finer control over the number of bracketed exposures you may require.


Tv bracketing valueEdit

Exposure Bracketing by adjusting the shutter speed (Tv Timing value). (Aperture and ISO remain constant) Sets the exposure shift by an EV (exposure value) in the range 1/3EV to 2EV
E.g. 1/3EV will change the shutter speed by 1/3rd-stop value for each bracketed exposure. If the first exposure is set for 1/100 shutter speed then the next shot at +1/3EV will be at 1/60 (note that +EV is a brigher image, more light, and -EV is a dimmer image, less light). A 2EV setting will change the shutter speed by 2 f/stop values for each bracketed exposure. If starting out at 1/100 then the next -2EV will be at 1/400.

Av bracketing valueEdit

Exposure Bracketing by adjusting the Aperture (f/stop). (shutter speed and ISO remain constant). Sets the exposure shift by an EV (exposure value) in the range 1/3EV to 2EV
E.g. 1/3EV will change the aperture (f/stop) by 1/3rd-stop value for each bracketed exposure. If the first exposure is set at f/4.0 then the next shot at +1/3EV will be at f/3.5 (note that +EV is a brigher image, more light, and -EV is a dimmer image, less light). A 2EV setting will change the aperture by 2 f/stop values for each bracketed exposure. If starting out at f/3.5 then the next -2EV will be at f/7.1.

ISO bracketing valueEdit

Exposure Bracketing by adjusting the ISO (e.g., the sensitivity of the imaging chip). (Shutter speed and aperture remain constant). The amount of shift is formed together with the "Value factor" (this feature still has a few bugs, being worked on)

Subj. Dist. Bracket Value (Subject Distance Bracket Value - works in MF mode only)Edit

Focus Bracketing: sequential shots will be taken at progressively larger offsets of the focal distance (relative to the initial focus setting). Positive bracketing values equal a more distant focal point, so if set to +, the focus point starts close to camera, and moves farther away with each shot. NOTE: This feature is ONLY available when camera is in Manual Focus (MF) mode. Check that focus is not set to infinity.

Bracketing typeEdit

TYPE of Bracketing.
+/- = Increase/Decrease, alternating by one value each frame (e.g., 0, -1, +1, -2, +2, -3, +3, ...).
- = Decrease by one value each frame (e.g., 0, -1, -2, -3, -4, ...).
+ = Increase by one value each frame (e.g., 0, +1, +2, +3, +4, ...).
This setting affects all Continuous-mode bracketings functions. It indicates whether subsequent shots are taken at progressively larger offsets above *and* below the initial shot ("+/-") or at progressively larger offsets only above ("+") or only below ("-") the settings of the initial shot. For Tv or Av bracketing, "-" leads to a progressive INCREASE of shutter speed or a REDUCED value of the aperture. In the case of ISO or Focus bracketing, the ISO or focus distance values change with the direction changes.
Please keep in mind that:
+EV = Brighter image / Slower shutter-speeds / Lower-number f/stops / Higher ISOs
-EV = Dimmer image / Faster shutter-speeds / Higher-number f/stops / Lower ISOs
+ and/or - in Subject Distance Bracketing is that value in millimeters for each bracket shot. E.g. SD (subject distance) value = 2 x 100 will increment by + and/or - 200mm more for each shot, depending on your +/- bracketing type chosen here.
+ /- bracketing, in the literal sense of the word. The first step is the initial exposure. Second-shift to a negative Ev. Third-shift to a positive Ev. In accordance with the above described logic. IF a bracketing-sequence reaches either end of your camera's available settings, then the alternating value will no longer be recorded, and just the available limiits still available at the other end of the bracketing sequence will be recorded. This way you won't get duplicate images at the extreme of your camera's range (bottoming-out and being repeated). Ie, if we start out with an f/stop of f/4.0, the sequence of a +/- 1/3EV bracketing (using the Av bracketing option) will be (approx.): f/4.0, 3.5, 4.5, 3.2, 5.0, 2.8, 5.6, *** 6.3, 7.1 ……
*** Note here that f/2.8 or less is no longer being recorded in the alternating sequence, as you have already reached the widest aperture limit of your camera. This prevents any repeat frames, lost storage, and excess time being lost.
It should be noted that bracketings can work with the user through the installation of expo-parameters of CHDK! (??)

How to bracket in cameras not capable of continuous shootingEdit

See http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/UBASIC/Scripts:_Make_ANY_Single-Shot_Intervalometer_into_an_HDR-Bracketing_Script for the full solution for cameras not capable of shooting in continuous mode. The abbreviated version is: In the camera menu (not the CHDK menu) set your custom self timer to an interval of 0 seconds and your number of shots to the number you want to bracket. Set the camera in custom self timer mode and then start shooting using a CHDK interval timer script. This solution appears to work in other CHDK builds too.

Extra Photo Operations > Custom Auto ISOEdit

This feature has 2 purposes:

1. Allow the user to define the exact ranges of ISO used in AutoISO and AUTO-HI.
As an example: Expand the AutoISO range from 80-200 to 50-400.
2. Give additional information to the camera to allow it to select the optimal shutter speed (to avoid blur or get the right artistic exposure) and ISO instead of some sub-optimal default.
As an example: Use a faster shutter and higher ISO when shooting sports, but go for a slower shutter and minimal ISO when shooting still landscapes)

Method:

The camera will try to maintain lowest ISO as long as shutter speed is no slower than user defined (more below). Custom AutoISO will kick-in whenever ISO HI/AutoISO is chosen. This allows a quick manual override by choosing a specific ISO value.

Example:

Camera set ISO 100 at 1/8s. AutoISO configured to ISO50-400 at 1/15s: AutoISO will shift to ISO200 to maintain 1/15s shutter speed.

→ This feature is available in all modes except for Shutter priority (Tv). It is also disabled in stich assist to prevent using different settings for each panorama part.

This link has more info: [1]

Enable Custom Auto ISOEdit

Options, On / Off

This is the master switch for this feature.

Minimal Shutter SpeedEdit

Here you have basically two options:

  1. Auto - This is for use when photographing still-life, landscapes, etc. It will use the factors below to prevent camera shake, but will assume the subject holds still.
  2. Numerical setting - hint to the camera what is the optimal shutter speed for the subject you are photographing. The camera will try to use this value or a faster one as much as possible (to prevent blur), e.g.
  • 1/8s - 1/30s - Slow moving subjects.
  • 1/60s - 1/125s - Kids, Pets, general movement ::c.
  • 1/250s - 1/1000s - Sports, Fast action

User Factor (1/FL/factor)Edit

A general rule of thumb is that to avoid blur from camera shake you should use a shutter speed equal to 1/EFL (Focal length in 35mm terms) or faster. This means that for every focal length (zoom position) there is a different optimal shutter speed. Also, the level of holding technique is not equal between photographers.
The user factor here should be set once and take into account 2 parameters:
1. The lens conversion ratio (to 35mm equivalent).
2. The steadiness of your hand (you may need to experiment).
Example:
1. Let's say I use a conversion factor of 6 (Canon SD700)
2. Let's say I'm slightly below average at holding the camera steady, so I give my self a ~20% extra shutter time.
Factor = 6 + 20% = 7 (This is not exact, just a hint to the camera). For the SD700 at wide-angle (F/2.8), the camera has an FL of 5.8, thus the target shutter speed for still-life photography will be 1/(5.8*7) = 1/40s
On the other hand (no pun intended), if you have remarkably steady hand-holding techniques you may lower this below your camera lens' conversion factor.
Verified cameras model lens conversion factors: SD700 = 6x, S3 IS = 6x, A570 IS = 6x, SD1000 = 6x
You may somewhat safely assume your Powershot lens has a 6x conversion factor (very common) unless otherwise specified. To calculate your camera's conversion factor divide EFL (35mm equivalent focal length) by FL (true focal length). Example: 36mm EFL / 6mm FL = 6x conversion factor. If you find yours different than 6x please add it to the above list with the correct multiplier.

IS Factor (IS*Factor)Edit

Cameras that have IS allow using a slower shutter speed for still-life (IS is no help for shooting sports...)
The IS factor should be set according to the effectiveness of IS in your camera:
Some examples:
1. 2 - One stop advantage
2. 4 - Two stop advantage (common)
3. 8 - Three stop advantage (very effective IS)
(stop advantage is by powers of 2, i.e. 4-stop advantage is 16, etc.)
You may want to experiment, this is a one time setting. Please note that Custom AutoISO is smart enough to disregard this factor if IS is disabled while taking the shot.
Example of use (continued from User factor example):
IS factor chosen is 5.
Current shutter speed is 1/40s
New shutter speed is (1/40)*5 = 1/8s
Hint: To vastly increase the effectiveness of IS in all camera systems, set your IS mode to "Shoot Only". With the instant visual feedback of camera shake in your viewfinder you can then see how much you have to steady your camera with your own techniques. If you get the camera as steady as possible beforehand, by yourself, then the IS will easily remove any camera shake that is left-over, even during slow shutter speeds that you once thought impossible before. One drawback, auto-focus needs a steady image to lock onto so this may cause auto-focusing problems in low light conditions if you cannot remove enough camera shake on your own. By using IS in "Shoot Only" mode and learning steady handheld techniques you may be able to increase this IS Factor number far beyond a measly three-stop advantage. Tack-sharp handheld exposures of 1 full second are possible with the right handheld techniques + IS.

Max ISO High (x10)Edit

This marks the maximum ISO to be used while in ISO HI mode. This should normally be higher than the value for ISO Auto. Note that this uses a x10 multiplier to shorten input time (e.g. 80 = ISO 800). This should take into account maximum noise level you believe is useful in this mode (e.g. 1000 ISO).

Max ISO Auto (x10)Edit

This marks the maximum ISO to be used while in AUTO ISO mode. This should normally be lower than the value for ISO HI. Note that this uses a x10 multiplier to shorten input time (e.g. 10 = ISO 100). This should take into account maximum noise level you believe is useful in this mode (e.g. 400 ISO).

Min ISO Auto (x10)Edit

This should be set for the camera's base ISO (where you get minimal noise and maximal dynamic range). For Canon CHDK cameras this is usually between 50-80 ISO. Note that this is usually LOWER than what is allowed by Canon to be selected manually.

OSD ParametersEdit

User MenuEdit

Used to select (or p/review) your customizable "User Menu" after you have chosen "edit mode" (see next)

User Menu EnableEdit

Enables you to create your own customized User Menu with up to 10 entries. The Main CHDK Menu will be available at the top of your customized User-Menu.
Off = CHDK Menu system behaves as normal, no customized User Menu will be displayed.
On = When entering <ALT> mode and then pressing your MENU button, instead of seeing the main CHDK menu system you will see YOUR customized User-Menu that you have defined. The CHDK Main Menu may still be selected from your custom menu.
On Dire(ct) = Your customized User Menu will appear as soon as you enter <ALT> mode. Pressing your MENU button once will display the original Main CHDK Menu, Pressing MENU again will exit from CHDK's menu system(s) and return you to plain <ALT> mode, where you can use your <ALT> shortcut keys (e.g. RAW toggle, OSD toggles, script execution an more).
Edit = Enables the customizable User Menu Edit mode.
  • To copy other menu-items to build your custom menu (Up to 10 entries):
Still in the OSD parameters menu, select User Menu Enable [ Edit], now browse to any menu and select the item you want to add to the User Menu, then press +/- or the equivalent button (the Shutter button on IXUS/SD series, Delete on some cameras of the SX series) on your camera.
The item has now been added to your User Menu (you'll see no response to this on the screen). Each new item is added as the lowest on the menu.
To delete an item, select the item in Edit Mode and press +/- (or the equivalent button).
When editing is complete remember to set the User Menu Enable option back from "Edit" to either "On" or "On Direct".
You can easily return to the Main Menu by selecting it at the top of the User Menu.
Customizing hint/reminder: Some CHDK features require 2 or more options that work together. An example, "Override Shutter Speed" might also need its associated "Value Factor" selection and the "Shutter Speed Enum Type" if you change that too frequently. Be sure to copy any related menu items together so they are still available where you need them in your custom menu.

Miscellaneous Values (Additional values)Edit

Some sections somewhat completed, could probably use a heavy hand to edit them to make them more succinct. Other sections not even touched on yet.


Through this menu, you can control the display set at the conclusion of additional values, which may be useful in the process of photographing
Some excellent information about these new values that can assist you (or confuse you! :) ) in your advanced photography needs are covered in this Wikia page for APEX, the Additive system of Photographic EXposure

Show ZoomEdit

Display the list of additional value of the current value Zoom

Zoom valueEdit

Type Display Zoom (it was in previous versions)

Adapter Lens Scale, 100=1XEdit

Allows you to change the Zoom-Value factor by a multiplier (in 100ths), so your zoom lens setting will reflect the proper focal length when using wide-angle and tele-converter lenses. Example: If using a tele-converter rated at 1.7x change this value to 170. If using a wide-angle conversion lens rated at 0.66X change this value to 66. 100 is no adapter lens in use, just the camera's own lens (100% of the original lens). If changing lenses frequently this is a good candidate for your customized User Menu (see above).

Show 'Real' ApertureEdit

Displays the true aperture value. This differs from the standard Av value in that it will reflect any Aperture Override values also. This number is not rounded to the nearest whole aperture (what would be called the "Av 'Market' Value").

Show 'Real' ISOEdit

Displays the user-selected ISO value from all ISO Override and ISO Bracketing modes. This is also calculated in the 'composite ISO' value as written to a particular EXIF MakerNote data field. Note: that although the 'Real ISO' value will reflect your chosen ISO, your camera may not be able to actually use this value. Any value below or above your camera's hardware limits will default to the camera using it's own limit. Meaning, if you select an ISO value of 30, your camera will use some value between ISO50 and ISO60, the lowest possible determined by your camera's hardware. (So far, it has been found that on an S3 IS, the real ISO value range runs from approximately ISO50 up to around ISO850. Deduced from looking at 'Real ISO' values and comparing them to histograms of sequences of test images.)
The differences between 'Real' and 'Market' values can be substantial. In the case of AutoISO value in EXIF, the written AutoISO is calculated from the 'Marketed Value'. This can be seen using the program "ExifTool". Example: the true or 'Real' ISO can have a value of ISO146, the "marketed" or user-friendly rounded value might be ISO200. (The 'Market', or marketed, value is the rounded value that Canon would like you to see for simplicity sake. This is a bit like "the number on the box" vs. what is actually inside the box. AllBest chose this description of 'Market Value' because there is no clear adjective to describe the two different kinds of numerica values in English. Just remember that 'Market' = Canon's dumbed-down user-friendly rounded value. And 'Real' refers to the actual number being used or selected at the time.
If you would like a special utility to copy these user-selected 'Real' values of ISO, Aperture, and Shutter speed from Override and Bracketing modes to standard EXIF locations, so that all your editors and viewers can read them, you can obtain a copy of "Auto CHDK to EXIF.zip" from a discussion thread at the CHDK Forum where one was made available for this purpose. Topic title: CHDK to EXIF Utility - Convert CHDK EXIF to Standard EXIF Data. You will have to have an account there to be able to see and download the "Auto CHDK to EXIF" utility attached to that post.

Show 'market' ISOEdit

Show "marketing ISO" value. Have Canon, apparently two division in their ISO values? Exposure is calculated on the basis of "real". For example, on the A620, the claimed 50 "marketing" is around 46 "real". For the A630 "marketing" 80 becomes 49 "real"
As a result of observation of ISO on my A620, I have reached the following conclusions. In mode P, autoISO never goes higher than marketing 100. In fully automatic mode autoISO does not rise above 140. In priority modes autoISO always at least ??, as in performing at the dial modes (portrait, landscape, night scenery). In some regimes performing autoISO can be raised to 200, but not above

Show ISO only in Auto-ISO modeEdit

Show-meaning ISO mode only when using Auto-ISO {Does this mean that the OSD will show the ISO that the camera intends to use when it's in Auto-ISO mode? - yes.}

Show Ev (Tv + Av)Edit

Show-exposed camera exposure value based on the values of shutter speed and aperture.

Show Ev (Bv + Sv)Edit

The right equation exposure (brightness value + sensitivity scenes set in a camera)

Show Bv (brightness value) intEdit

Internal-brightness scenes through recalculation of the parameters established in the camera. Just Av-Sv + Tv.

Show Bv (brightness value) extEdit

This value is written in Exif as MeasuredEV
Comment on Phil Harvey (author exifTool): This the Canon name for what should properly be called MeasuredLV, and is offset by about -5 EV from the calculated LV for most models

Show Overexp.value (No flash!)Edit

This is the result of subtracting Av-Bv-Sv + Tv. Not accounted Fl- flash light value
There may seem interesting observations
For example, in the theatrical mode, "Beach" Canon uses compensation exposure +1 / 3, and the "snow - + 2 / 3. In the automatic mode overexpo sometime to 1/3 in P- mode while-0. When Bv negative values (or close to negative) ignored underexpo to -1 (that is not available in red expoparams is in the manual modes). Either party that is the policy of "Canon", or something, I'm confused…:-/

Show Scene LuminanceEdit

Run average in standard illumination scenes candelas per square meter… calculated from a ratio to Bv = 12.5. Ie Wages can be used as an exposure meter.

DOF Calculator (DOF Improvements)Edit

OSD Parameters > DOF Calculator
The menu is a subsidiary of the menu "OSD parameters"
Depth of Field calculator-options, all values are shown in meter
  • "Don't" DOF calculator is not shown
  • "Separate" DOF calculator is shown when the shoot button is half pressed
S: distance to subject that is being focused
R1: nearest distance which will be still in focus
R2: farthest distance which will be still in focus
DOF: distance (between this points) that will be in focus
HYP: Hyperfocal distance
SD: distance to subject that is being focused
NL: nearest distance which will be still in focus
FL: farthest distance which will be still in focus
DOF: distance (between this points) that will be in focus
HYP: Hyperfocal distance

Canon Subj. Dist. as Near LimitEdit

Section needs re-translation?

pilot point. As probably noticed many more meters for distance calculator shows, to put it mildly, inaccurate shooting distance to the object. It remains a mystery what gets us in the largest Canon. One can not say that the meter plus or minus is not important. This is important, in particular, to calculate the power outbreak. Autoiso observed in the flash mode for almost a clear correlation autoiso values of the distance to the object. At a maximum of this value must go somewhere in an area declared flash guide number-4.2 meters. So, if it is considered that Canon gets somewhere around the border zone nearest acceptable sharpness, the guidance accuracy and distance increases and flash guide number is, and docking with the values and burned without Zuma once more or less similar. That is all for my 620 th. And, as far as I understand, for many it is not clear what the connection between the manual focus slider, running his exemplary values, and why when, like, again, everything about "correct" said the object looks like the focus is not.

Use EXIF Subj. Dist. (PC65)Edit

Also, a pilot point. It should be noted that there is a difference between what we are getting now, as the distance to the object through CHDK and the importance that remains in the canon exif. Perhaps in the EXIF tend to be smaller, but the same line with the above, in the manual mode. This value corresponds to property case 65. Here it is proposed to use this amount for calculation. Combined with the first item, in my view, is produced more accurate results. In short, you can experiment and come to their conclusions somehow
IMPORTANT. Setting the above parameters directly affect the relevant script-commands establishing distance focus, as well as the behavior of camera in bracketing to subject distance in manual mode and the custom installation distance focus

Show Subj. Dist. in Misc.Edit

Show focus distance from the list of additional values (provided that the above selected "In Misc" show-value calculator depth of field from the list of additional)

Show Near Limit in Misc.Edit

Same, just near the border zone regarding acceptable sharpness

Show Far Limit in Misc.Edit

The same, only distant border

Show Hyperfocal Dist. in Misc.Edit

Depending on the aperture set and zoom rate, the hyperfocal distance reflects the optimal distance for an object to be photographed, i.e. the sharpness of that object will be the highest at this specific distance. Increased deviation from that distance will eventually lead to blurring (though the blurring is not visible by the human eye as long as the object is within the Depth-of-Field range)

Show Depth of Field in Misc.Edit

The same, only the depth of the zone

Show OSD in Review ModeEdit

Enabling this feature allows you to see your OSD display information while in review mode -- when your image is being displayed just after shooting. Either by using the "Review" setting from your camera menus (Off, 2-10 seconds or Hold). Or by pressing the [SET] button while you keep the shutter held down after taking an image, for manually selected Review Mode.

Video ParametersEdit

This section done.(?)


The "Video Parameters" section of the main CHDK menu contains settings that previously were contained in the "Miscellaneous Stuff" section. They have been placed in their own main-menu section for easier access. These features were first discovered and implemented by EWAVR and then ported to other camera models by Fingalo. Please see the original Firmware Usage: Special Builds Section or the Downloads Discussion Page for further information on these settings and features.

RAW Parameters > RAW Develop (Build 100-15 or Later)Edit

A new feature from EWAVR. This allows you to select any RAW file on your SD card and then process it into a JPG file so that you may view it in your camera. Exceptionally handy after using any of the new RAW Merge features so you can see the result without the need of a computer and extra RAW processing software.
Choose "RAW Develop" and you will be presented with a file-browser display. Navigate to the RAW file that you want to process into a JPG file. After hitting [SET] to select your file, you will be asked to "Switch Camera to Record Mode and take one shot." Press [SET] again to back out of this menu, then use your <ALT> toggle button to exit <ALT> mode. Press the shutter button.
Instead of taking an image, it will take that selected RAW file and now make a JPG file from it. It will be named according to whatever last JPG filename is in that folder and increment it by 1.
Keep in mind that the EXIF data on this new JPG file will not reflect the original RAW file. It will use whatever camera settings were available at the time that you take the RAW Developing Shot for the resulting EXIF data.
Note: RAW file-saving must be turned ON for this feature to work. If RAW is not turned on, or you select a JPG file for "developing", then no action will take place.
IMPORTANT: Whatever special custom color, white balance, or other settings that you use for taking images will also be used and applied to your RAW file for its "developed" JPG output. So if you want you can now use your RAW frame as the master copy, and then apply any and all special effects, sharpening levels, contrast settings, B&W, to your resulting JPG file. Take one image and change its contrast or sharpening as needed. And ... get this ... if you put your camera into Digital Zoom before you take your "develop frame", then your Digital Zoom is also applied to your RAW image for the resulting JPG file. This gives you some, limited to the center of the frame, in-camera cropping features. At lowest digital zoom it will crop off a border, until at full digital-zoom you are only seeing the center of your original RAW image (in the resulting JPG file, that is). In short, any special in-camera software effects that you set before taking the "develop shot" will be applied to the RAW image's JPG output. Just as if you were pointing the camera at the original scene instead of the RAW file.
If you have a camera with 1600 ISO then you can increase EV by 1 (brighter image) when you develop raws shot at a lower ISO speed. Just choose 1600 before pressing the shutter button.
Added Bonus: Adjustable Noise Reduction - Using the above technique, it has been discovered that you now have control over how much noise reduction will be applied to your JPG image. When taking a shot at ISO-80/100 very little noise reduction is applied to the RAW sensor data to produce the camera's JPG image. When using ISO-800 (for example) noise reduction is applied to the JPG with a heavy-hand in the camera. Some people find the detail loss unacceptable and would opt for more noise and keeping the detail. Excess noise they can remove later with better post-processing software than the camera's own methods. Now you can have your cake and eat it too. If you take a RAW image at ISO-800, then use the RAW Develop feature with your camera's ISO set to 80, little to no noise reduction will be applied to the resulting JPG image, retaining as much detail as possible. For those of you that would rather work with high-ISO JPG images than the more time consuming RAW processing (with all its inherent white-balance headaches, etc.) you may find RAW Develop settings that can make your workflow faster and easier with better results. (Conversely, you could also apply high-ISO Raw Develop noise reduction to low-ISO RAW shots for some special detail-smearing effects, but I fail to see a use for this - yet. :) That's not to say that it couldn't be used creatively -- for something.)

Miscellaneous Stuff > File Browser > RAW MergeEdit

Two new features from EWAVR, allowing you to do advanced "frame stacking" by using your camera alone.
When selecting (highlighting) files in the file browser mode, by using your RIGHT navigational button, you now have 2 new functions available on the LEFT navigational button menu.
If after using either of these features and you would like to see the resulting image without having to load them into a computer and using RAW viewing software, use the new "RAW Develop" feature on the "RAW Parameters" menu to create a JPG file for playback in the camera.
When using either of these options the resulting new RAW file will use whatever last filename was selected for merging as the prefix to the new RAW filename, and a WAV suffix will be added to it so you know which last-of-a-sequence files were used for merging. This also circumvents any confusion later when using utilities like DNG4PS with trying to merge corresponding JPG EXIF data with the original RAW data, where filenames could get drastically out of order by creating new JPG filename numbers.

RAW SumEdit

Using the selected RAW files, this will combine them into one file. Working on a additive principle. Meaning, if you take five 65-second exposures, then RAW Sum them together, your resulting image will be equivalent to the brightness level of a 5 minute, 25 second exposure.

RAW AverageEdit

This RAW Merge feature will, as it says, average all the frames together. Especially handy if taking several identical frames at high ISOs at high shutter speeds. This will merge them together, effectively obliterating any noise, as the noise gets averaged out. The more frames used, the less noise you will see.
(While not tested yet, this could be interesting for multiple-exposure uses, as when doing strobe-sequences of motion studies or novelty photos, without having to depend on advanced photo editing software.)

Hot-Pixel Removal (Build 100-16 and later)Edit

This is not on a menu, but is a feature enabled by putting a special "badpixel" file into the /CHDK/ folder on your SD card.
Line structure of this file:
x1,y1
x2,y2
and so on
Here {xn,yn} are the coordinates of bad pixels in RAW file format
To receive this list of hot-pixel coordinates you need to capture a "dark frame" by shooting an image with your lens completely capped. For shutter speeds longer than 1 to 10 seconds, it's good to keep a collection of dark-frames on hand for each exposure length that you will be using in the future, as more warm and hot-pixels show up with extended shutter speeds. After that you can use the program "2009-01-23-show-bad-zip". Note that this zip archive also contains the complete source code; in order to use the program with Linux or Mac OS, just compile it, e.g. with "gcc show_bad.c -o show_bad" in a Terminal window.
Usage (here: Windows, but Mac OS and Linux work similarly once you have compiled the program):
Put show_bad.exe in the same folder as your RAW dark-frame shots.
Open a command prompt to that folder and type:
show_bad raw_file.CR2 X > badpixel
Where raw_file.CR2 is the name of your RAW file, the extension (CR2) may be anything that you have chosen as CHDK's default RAW file extension. And where X is the hot/warm-pixel tolerance setting. 128 is a good starting point.
(This works nicely as a batch file, the > directs output from show_bad into "badpixel" file. Do NOT use a .TXT extension as CHDK will not recognize it.)
Keep ISO low when photographing dark-frame and note 32 < X < 1023 also the xn,yn coordinates vary with the photo format. A two line batch file with all files in the same folder, 'pause' just holds output on-screen for viewing.
show_bad raw_file.CR2 99 > badpixel
pause
Save the batch file as tol.bat into the same folder and doubleclick to run.
The file "badpixel" will be created in the same directory. For lengthy shutter speeds you might want to experiment with that X tolerance value, as you don't want to remove slightly warmer pixels that now look very bright. They might be containing useful data which can be dealt with better by using noise-removal techniques to quiet them down.
As it has been understood from the source code: the mapping mechanism is quite simple. In the post-shoot routine (where the raw file is eventually captured from memory and saved, just before camera software saves the image to a jpeg file) the bad pixel list is examined. For each pixel on the list its value is overwritten by arithmetic avg. of 4 pixels situated 2 pixels apart from the hot one. We can't take neighbors in the closest surrounding, because these pixels are not the same color in the BAYER grid (we are not working with RGB pixels). See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayer_filter
EWAVR now suggests that the removal procedure illustrated below is not necessary, everything after the second number (including =) is ignored when the "badpixel" file is read.

Note for Linux and Mac OS: Running the tool creates Unix line ends (\n), not DOS line ends (\r\n), so that there is no need to further edit the file. The following procedure is unnecessary.

In order to get the output "badpixel" file from "show_bad.exe" in the right format you'll have to truncate each line from the "=" sign on. I happen to use UltraEdit (www.ultraedit.com) as my main text editor. If you have it, then here's a simple script to clean up the output of badpixel.txt to the required format. Just load up badpixel.txt into UltraEdit, put your cursor at the very top of the file, then run this macro on it.
UltraEdit Macro Code:
InsertMode
ColumnModeOff
HexOff
UnixReOff
Loop
Find "="
DeleteToEndofLine
IfNotFound
ExitLoop
EndIf
EndLoop

Note [Tested on S5 IS]: Above functionality works for RAW as well as for JPEG files (RAW saving is not required), but only when "badpixel" file containing hot/warm-pixel coordinates have Unix formatting - not Windows. You can check if this file is correctly formated using 'Text File Reader' option in CHDK menu. File formated under Windows Notepad may have some additional signs, that CHDK doesn't understand. I confirm that remove procedure of everything after second number is not necessary. So this file can look like this:

2988,435=938
2989,435=876

Note [Report on another S5 IS test] Using the "badpixel file created by show_bad raw_file.CR2 X > badpixel didn't remove the bad pixels even though they were displayed as shown above in the camera's 'Text File Reader'. Using EditPad Lite [freeware] I selected convert to UNIX and deleted the '=' and subsequent characters on each line. So the file looked like this:

2988,435
2989,435

This removed the bad pixels. I didn't have time to separately test the two steps in EditPad Lite. RSB 00:34, 10 November 2008 (UTC)

New/Special Short-cut KeysEdit

Some cameras have special short-cut keys with specialized functions.

Quick-Set Hyperfocal & Infinite Manual Focus DistancesEdit

When in MF mode and in <ALT> mode, you may press the UP navigation button to instantly set MF (manual focus) distance to infinity. Press the DOWN navigation button to instantly set MF distance to hyperfocal distance (based on f/stop and zoom focal-length).
On the IXUS series the DISP button is used to instantly set MF (manual focus) distance to infinity.

Quick Input Unit-Value SelectorEdit

When changing values in any CHDK menu options or script-variable selections you may use the zoom-rocker toggle to quickly switch between changing the 1s, 10s, 100s, 1000s, and 10,000s unit. A red-highlighted indicator will appear in the upper left of your EVF/LCD to let you know which unit you are changing.

Current List of uBASIC Operations and Commands:Edit

What follows is the original German to English translation done with automated online translation services. If they don't make sense to you, they don't make sense to anyone else either. Nor has anyone been considerate enough to try to clarify any of them. You're on your own.


Note: the uBasic syntax for some commands were changed to match those of Fingalo's recent builds, some script-commands were added, the names of some terms(?) brought into line with the meaning of their load (old names - also left for compatibility), changed the engine of some teams, that the installation was through the same Hook , which is used for the custom installation expanded values

(If a command has already been covered in the main Scripting Tutorial Page, it will be shown as a link to the already existing explanation and use. Work in progress, please add more as you find them. Use existing link examples if you don't know how to embed Wikia links.)

Relational operators
<>
<=
>=
<
>
Logical operators
not
or
and
Structural operators (and Special Builds Commands)
let
if
then
else
endif
for
to
next
step
do
until
while
wend
goto
gosub
return
call
Informational operators
rem
cls
print_screen
print
Camera operation
click
press
release
shoot
sleep
Get ops (to be associated with suitable return parameters)
get_av96 Since Canon appears to use ?? to calculate the rate of 96 (found by analyzing the values match formulas APEX), and also in the token indicates that the installation corresponds to the value of Av * 96. From my point of view, so convenient. Load-meaning teams receive appropriate value in a variable Av * 96 from the relevant again, PropertyCase
get_bv96 get brightness value
get_day_second current within one second of the day
get_dof get the depth of sharpness in mm
get_far_limit get the border zone ranged acceptable sharpness mm
get_focus
get_hyp_dist get hyperfocal distance
get_iso_market get "marketing" ISO
get_iso_mode obtain ISO mode (the former get_iso)

Eg. the A620 list

0-> Auto "
50-> 50 "
100-> 100,
200-> 200,
400-> 400,
get_iso_real get real "value" ISO
get_iso obtain ISO mode
get_near_limit get dipped border zone acceptable sharpness
get_prop obtain property case, call
get_sv96 receive sensitivity value in the standard Apex. As always, multiplied by 96
get_tick_count returns system time
get_tv96 tv * 96
get_user_av_id the former get_av. Get custom installation av (in the manual modes) for ID in CHDK

Eg. the A620 list

(9, 288, "2.8")
(10, 320, "3.2")
(11, 352, "3.5")
(12, 384, "4.0")
(13, 416, "4.5")
(14, 448, "5.0")
(15, 480, "5.6")
(16, 512, "6.3")
(17, 544, "7.1")
(18, 576, "8.0")

The first of values-in ID CHDK. The move to the next ID is, in fact, a shift in the 1/3 ev. The second value is a av * 96

get_user_av96 returns custom av * 96
get_user_tv_id returns CHDK identifier for the established user manual modes tv.

Eg. the A620 list

(-4, -128, "2.5")
(-3, -96, "2")
(-2, -64, "1.6")
(-1, -32, "1.3")
(0, 0, "1")
(1, 32, "0.8")
(2, 64, "0.6")
(3, 96, "0.5")
(4, 128, "0.4")

This is part of possible values. Meaning load deflection on the id-the same as in the case of av

get_user_tv96 returns value installed in the user manual modes importance tv * 96
get_vbatt the voltage of the battery
get_zoom
Set OPS (usually associated with suitable parameters)
set_av96_direct direct installation av * 96. It works similarly to direct the installation of the interface chdk av. In any mode
set_av_rel see "set_user_av_by_id_rel (compatibility)
set_av96 the installation av * 96 in accordance with acceptable Canon list for the camera. Works in any mode
set_av see "set_user_av_by_id (compatibility)
set_focus
set_iso_mode the installation of a regime ISO.
set_iso_real Direct installation ISO. It works similar to the installation of the ISO interface CHDK
set_iso see "set_iso_mode (compatibility)
set_led numlock lamp. Transmit three-parameters ID, indicator state, and brightness
set_prop the installation, call propertycase
set_raw_nr the installation script regime in noise reduction / / "Auto", "Off", "On" (0,1,2)
set_raw the installation script in raw mode and disables the last(previous?)
set_sv96 direct installation of the sensitivity of APEX (Sv * 96)
set_tv96_direct direct tv installation * 96. Works installation excerpts from the same interface CHDK
set_tv_rel see "set_user_tv_rel_by_id" (interoperability)
set_tv96 direct tv installation * 96 from a list of valid values CANON (this value type N * 32. N for the A620 can have values from -12 to 32. works by installing excerpts from the CHDK interface
set_tv see "set_user_tv_by_id" (interoperability)
set_user_av_by_id_rel av installation on the current user on bias. The offset indicated in Id. The Id rationale was listed above.
set_user_av_by_id Custom Installation av according to the Id in CHDK. The point above id-
set_user_av96 custom installation av * 96 in the manual modes
set_user_tv_rel_by_id custom installation on the current tv on bias. The offset indicated in Id. Id rationale was listed above
set_user_tv_by_id the installation of custom tv permissible, in accordance with Canon ID for CHDK
set_user_tv96 the installation of custom Tv * 96. Of the number of allowable and non C
set_zoom_speed"
set_zoom_rel
set_zoom
wait_click
is_key
wheel_right
wheel_left
@ title
@ param
@ default
md_detect_motion commands detector movement. Questions to the MX3 ?
md_get_cell_diff
get_autostart parameter checking autostart for scripts
set_autostart Setting this option to autostart scripts

With these commands should be cautious. Specified Autorun leads to the script when you turn a camera on.

get_usb_power checking for USB connectivity. Works for series A and S-as a minimum.

Usage a=get_usb_power

For G-series is not working. Integration with USB- button. Authorship - EWAVR

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